Medieval Rings

les Enluminures
  • ring
  • ring
  • ring
  • ring
  • ring
  • ring
  • ring
  • ring

Ring with the God Krishna

India, probably Calcutta, c. 1900-1915

Rose gold, platinum, rubies and diamonds

  • 10.200 €
  • £9,000
  • $12,000
  • Ring with the God Krishna

    India, probably Calcutta, c. 1900-1915
    Rose gold, platinum, rubies and diamonds
    Weight 3.1 gr., US size 7, UK size O

    This delicate ring is composed of a rose gold hoop with square section which forks at the ends to support an oval openwork base with S-scrolls. Soldered onto this is an oval bezel with an enameled half portrait of Krishna against a pinkish-white background. The god is depicted with long wavy black hair and wearing many jewels, including a crown with peacock feather. The frame is made of platinum, the rubies are pavé set, and the diamonds are set with millegrain. Both the style and the iconography of this ring’s portrait suggest that it was made by a jeweler in Calcutta; it reflects elements of a new style emerging by the 1870s to 1880s at the Calcutta Art Studio described as the “Hindu Mytho-pictures”. Typical here is the aesthetic combination of a traditional portrait inspired by Western European prototypes with lithography, popular and newly developed, in exuberant colors. This ring’s Western European design suggests an early twentieth-century date.

    Reference number: 508

  • Diamond

    Precious, lustrous gemstones made of highly-compressed carbon, diamonds are one of the hardest materials known. Colors of diamonds range from colorless, yellow, orange, brown, to almost black. Rarer colors are red, blue, green, and purple; these colors (called fancies) are quite valuable. The largest-known gem-quality diamonds include the Cullinan (e. g., the Star of Africa, 530.20 carats), the Excelsior , the Great Mogul (an ancient Indian diamond which is said to have originally weighed 787.5 carats, but its location is unknown), the Darya-i-Nur , the Koh-i-Nur , and the Hope diamond (named for a purchaser, Henry Thomas Hope).

    Rubies

    Precious stones and a member of the corundum family, rubies range in color from the classic deep red to pink to purple to brown. Rubies are extremely hard; only diamonds are harder. Rubies were mined in Burma and sold through India in the Middle Ages to the Mediterranean.

    Birthstone

    January-Garnet: Safe travel and a speedy homecoming
    February-Amethyst: Power to overcome difficulties
    March-Jasper: Courage
    April-Diamond: Everlasting love
    May-Emerald: Love and fidelity
    June- Pearl: Purity, Celebrate a birth
    July- Ruby: Prosperity (if worn on the left hand); Everlasting love (if worn on the right)
    August-Peridot and Sardonyx: Strength and growth; Happiness in a relationship
    September-Sapphire: Sincerity and faithfulness
    October-Opal and Tourmaline: Confidence and hope
    November-Citrine and Yellow Topaz: Strength and friendship
    December-Turquoise: Protects against evil and ill health

  • Bezel

    The upper, protruding part of a finger ring (excluding the hoop and the shoulders) often set with a gemstone.

    Hoop

    Also called the shank, the rounded part of the ring that encircles the finger and connects to the bezel at the shoulders.

    Enamel

    Siliceous substance fusible upon metal, either transparent or opaque and with or without color, but it is usually employed to add decorative color to metal. Enamel can be applied in many different ways, including cloisonné , champlevé , and plique à jour .

  • Later

    It is virtually impossible to do justice to the evolution of jewelry from the Baroque period (c. 1700) to Modern times in a short synopsis, but these are a few highlights. Many of the functional aspects of finger-rings continued: they served for betrothal and marriage, for signing and family identification, for memorial purposes, as well as for pure ornament. However, some new types of rings emerge during this period: such as puzzle rings, gimmick rings, perfume rings, and rings that celebrated scientific achievements (e.g., watch rings) are but a few of the examples.

    This time span witnesses the emergence of the “archaeological style,” of which the work of Fortunato Pio Castellani in the 1830s to 1860s is a particularly well-known example, one that fits in the Neo-Classical period. We see the flourishing of other styles related to artistic movements in painting, sculpture, and architecture. These include Art Nouveau and the Arts and Crafts Movement, both beginning around the 1880s, and Art Deco in the 1920s, 30s, and 40s. It also covers the emergence of some of the most famous twentieth-century houses of jewelry, such as Cartier, Charmet, Boucheron, Bulgari, Tiffany’s, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Mellerio, to mention only a few. Jewelry historians responsible for exhibitions in major museums have begun to trace the historical contributions and characterize the styles of jewelry, including rings, not only of these different artistic movements, but also of these great houses.

    Two other sometimes-overlapping categories of later jewelry are of significant import. The first category, “artist jewelry,” consists of jewelry by artists mostly known for their work in other media, such as Picasso, Calder, Dali, Robert Indiana, Louise Bourgeois, Yves Klein, Anish Kapoor, and many others. The second category, “studio jewelry” includes work by modern and contemporary goldsmiths. Among those practicing today of special mention are Wendy Ramshaw and others belonging to the Goldsmith’s Company in London, dedicated to continuing the craft since it received its first royal charter in 1327. Others of different national origins include the Italian Giovanni Corvaja (handled by Adrian Sassoon in London), the American Joel Arthur Rosenthal or JAR of Paris (whose international exhibition was staged at the Metropolitan Museum in New York in 2013), Otto Jakob of Germany, and the newcomer Wallace Chan of China. The experienced viewer-collector, as well as the newcomer to the field, can begin to learn about modern jewelry at the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston with its dedicated jewelry gallery and specialized curator, the Victoria and Albert Museum in London which houses the William and Judith Bollinger Gallery, and the private collection of Alice and Louis Koch.

  • ring
  • ring
  • ring
  • ring
ring

Ring with the God Krishna

India, probably Calcutta, c. 1900-1915
Rose gold, platinum, rubies and diamonds
Weight 3.1 gr., US size 7, UK size O

USD $12,000

This delicate ring is composed of a rose gold hoop with square section which forks at the ends to support an oval openwork base with S-scrolls. Soldered onto this is an oval bezel with an enameled half portrait of Krishna against a pinkish-white background. The god is depicted with long wavy black hair and wearing many jewels, including a crown with peacock feather. The frame is made of platinum, the rubies are pavé set, and the diamonds are set with millegrain. Both the style and the iconography of this ring’s portrait suggest that it was made by a jeweler in Calcutta; it reflects elements of a new style emerging by the 1870s to 1880s at the Calcutta Art Studio described as the “Hindu Mytho-pictures”. Typical here is the aesthetic combination of a traditional portrait inspired by Western European prototypes with lithography, popular and newly developed, in exuberant colors. This ring’s Western European design suggests an early twentieth-century date.

Reference number: 508

You might also like

  • Ruby and Zircon Band Ring

    Northern India, late 19th century

  • Watch Ring by Brédillard

    France, Paris, c. 1900-1910

  • Iconographic Ring with St. Christopher

    England, c. 1450-70

  • Gimmel Fede Ring with Inscription “GAGE D’AMITIE”

    Probably England, c. 1750

  • Totentanz Ring by Claude Lévêque

    France, 2015

  • Jewish Wedding Ring

    Central or Eastern Europe, 18th century

  • Mourning Ring

    England, 1820

  • Gold Ring with the Standing Virgin and Child and Openwork Band

    Early Byzantine, late 7th-early 8th century

  • Renaissance Rock Crystal Ring

    Western Europe, about 1580-1600

  • POSY RING "LET UARTU BE GIDE TO THE"

    England, 17th century

  • RENAISSANCE MARRIAGE PORTRAIT CAMEO

    Italy (?), 16th-17th century

  • RENAISSANCE CAMEO OF GALBA (?)

    Europe, 17th (?) century

  • RENAISSANCE BLACKAMOOR CAMEO RING

    Europe, 16th century

  • POSY RING "GOD ABOVE INCREASE OUR LOVE"

    England, 17th century

  • CAMEO RING OF A MAN IN PROFILE

    Italy, 16th century

  • RENAISSANCE GEMSTONE RING

    Northern Italy, 16th century

  • POSY RING "HE THAT GAVE THIS GIVES HIM LIFE"

    Gold

  • BYZANTINE ARCHITECTURAL RING

    Byzantine Empire, 7th-8th century

  • Gold Ring with Openwork Hoop

    Byzantium, 6th-7th century

  • RENAISSANCE GEMSTONE RING

    Western Europe, late 16th century to early 17th century

  • POSY RING “I HAVE OBTAINED WHOME GOD ORDAIND”

    England, 17th century

  • MEMORIAL RING

    England, 1840-5

  • Late Roman or Early Medieval Ring with Garnet

    Italy? 6th-7th century

  • RING WITH GARNET CABOCHON

    Western Europe, probably England, late 13th-14th century

  • Ring with Renaissance Cameo

    Probably Northern Italy, cameo late 16th-early 17th century; ring: second half 18th century

  • Hellenistic Ring with Amphora

    Greece, 2nd – 1st century BC

  • Byzantine Glass and Pearl Ring

    Byzantium, early 6th century AD

  • Openwork Double Gemstone Ring of Garnet and Emerald

    Byzantine Egypt, Alexandria?, 6th – 7th century AD

  • Sapphire Ring with Portrait of Gabriel Bethlen, Prince of Transylvania

    Transylvania, 1619

  • Magic Ring of the Karo Batak

    Indonesia, North Sumatra, late 19th century

  • Art Nouveau Ophelia Ring

    France, 1909

  • “LOVE” Ring by Robert Indiana

    United States, 1969

  • Ionic Capital Rings by Stanley Tigerman

    United States and Italy, 1986-1987

  • Gold and Enamel Band by Giovanni Corvaja

    Italy, Todi, 2013

  • Jewish Wedding Ring

    Central or Eastern Europe (Hungary?), 19th century

  • Posy Ring, “Gods intent none can prevent”

    England, 18th century

  • Cameo with Bust of a Young Woman Holding a Dog

    Italy, 16th century; mount 18th century

  • Signet Ring with Double-headed Eagle

    Western Europe (Germany or Austria ?), c. 1700

  • Gold Ring with a Glass Cameo of a Cross

    Early Byzantine, c. 6th-7th century AD

  • Gold Gemstone Ring with Garnet Intaglio of a Cruciform Monogram

    Early Byzantine, c. 550-600 AD

  • Gold Ring with a Cruciform Monogram and Inscription

    Early Byzantine, c. 550-600 AD

  • Gold Ring with Engraved Warrior Saint (George?) and Inscription

    Early Byzantine, c. 550-650 AD

  • Gold Ring with Engraved Virgin and Child and Inscription

    Byzantine Empire, 6th-7th century AD

  • Gold Ring with Personification of Constantinople

    Early Byzantine, c. 500-600 AD

  • Gold Ring with the Monogram of Zeno

    Early Byzantine, c. 450-500 AD

  • Electrum (or possibly Silver Gilt) Ring with Eagle and Monogram

    Early Byzantine, c. 550-600 AD

  • Garnet Cabochon Ring

    England, 13th century

  • Baroque Emerald Cluster

    Spain, late 17th century