Medieval Rings

les Enluminures
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Double Bull Ring by Mosheh Oved

England, c. 1950

Silver, gold, rubies, diamonds

  • 10.300 €
  • £9,200
  • $12,000
  • Double Bull Ring by Mosheh Oved

    England, c. 1950
    Silver, gold, rubies, diamonds
    Weight 14.1 gr.; circumference 48.79 mm.; US size 4 3/4; UK size J 1/4; at widest point 12.5 mm.; Legnth 25.8 mm

    Moshe Oved was the founder and owner of a renowned antique shop, named Cameo Corner, in the Bloomsbury area of London, near the British Museum. He was an authority on antique jewelry, a writer, sculptor, and poet. His first animal rings were created during the bombing raids of London during the Second World War. Amid one of these raids his wife Sah Oved, a jeweler in her own right, observed how Mosheh’s hands were trembling. Whilst sheltering in the basement of the shop she would give him some modelling wax to steady his hands, and that is when the series of animal rings began. His first attempts were either lambs or a kid on shaky legs. Another touching story from this period is that Mosheh made a ring shaped like a wounded lamb from the metal of his own cuff links as a spontaneous act of giving and sympathy for a client who had recently lost his son in battle.

    Description:
    The heavy silver ring is modelled as two bulls, a larger one with curled horns and ruby set eyes, and the smaller one with golden horns and tiny diamond eyes. Their bodies form a circular opening and hoop which surrounds the finger. The original owner of this ring remembers as a child visiting Cameo Corner with her father. They would discuss politics while she enjoyed exploring the curiosities in the shop. Oved personally gave her this ring, when she turned 10, as her zodiac sign was Taurus.

    Literature:
    His autobiography a Who’s Who of his time, is full of anecdotal tales of his international customers and notorieties of the period (Moshe Oved, Vision and Jewels, Autobiographic in Three Parts, London 1952).  For his animal rings, see: Peter Hinks, Twentieth-Century British Jewellery 1900-1980, London and Boston 1983, p. 96; Elsa Zorn Karlin, Jewelry and Metalwork in the Arts and Crafts Tradition, Atglen, Pennsylvania 1993, p. 86. 

    Reference number: 871

  • Rubies

    Precious stones and a member of the corundum family, rubies range in color from the classic deep red to pink to purple to brown. Rubies are extremely hard; only diamonds are harder. Rubies were mined in Burma and sold through India in the Middle Ages to the Mediterranean.

    Birthstone

    January-Garnet: Safe travel and a speedy homecoming
    February-Amethyst: Power to overcome difficulties
    March-Jasper: Courage
    April-Diamond: Everlasting love
    May-Emerald: Love and fidelity
    June- Pearl: Purity, Celebrate a birth
    July- Ruby: Prosperity (if worn on the left hand); Everlasting love (if worn on the right)
    August-Peridot and Sardonyx: Strength and growth; Happiness in a relationship
    September-Sapphire: Sincerity and faithfulness
    October-Opal and Tourmaline: Confidence and hope
    November-Citrine and Yellow Topaz: Strength and friendship
    December-Turquoise: Protects against evil and ill health

  • Hoop

    Also called the shank, the rounded part of the ring that encircles the finger and connects to the bezel at the shoulders.

  • Later

    It is virtually impossible to do justice to the evolution of jewelry from the Baroque period (c. 1700) to Modern times in a short synopsis, but these are a few highlights. Many of the functional aspects of finger-rings continued: they served for betrothal and marriage, for signing and family identification, for memorial purposes, as well as for pure ornament. However, some new types of rings emerge during this period: such as puzzle rings, gimmick rings, perfume rings, and rings that celebrated scientific achievements (e.g., watch rings) are but a few of the examples.

    This time span witnesses the emergence of the “archaeological style,” of which the work of Fortunato Pio Castellani in the 1830s to 1860s is a particularly well-known example, one that fits in the Neo-Classical period. We see the flourishing of other styles related to artistic movements in painting, sculpture, and architecture. These include Art Nouveau and the Arts and Crafts Movement, both beginning around the 1880s, and Art Deco in the 1920s, 30s, and 40s. It also covers the emergence of some of the most famous twentieth-century houses of jewelry, such as Cartier, Charmet, Boucheron, Bulgari, Tiffany’s, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Mellerio, to mention only a few. Jewelry historians responsible for exhibitions in major museums have begun to trace the historical contributions and characterize the styles of jewelry, including rings, not only of these different artistic movements, but also of these great houses.

    Two other sometimes-overlapping categories of later jewelry are of significant import. The first category, “artist jewelry,” consists of jewelry by artists mostly known for their work in other media, such as Picasso, Calder, Dali, Robert Indiana, Louise Bourgeois, Yves Klein, Anish Kapoor, and many others. The second category, “studio jewelry” includes work by modern and contemporary goldsmiths. Among those practicing today of special mention are Wendy Ramshaw and others belonging to the Goldsmith’s Company in London, dedicated to continuing the craft since it received its first royal charter in 1327. Others of different national origins include the Italian Giovanni Corvaja (handled by Adrian Sassoon in London), the American Joel Arthur Rosenthal or JAR of Paris (whose international exhibition was staged at the Metropolitan Museum in New York in 2013), Otto Jakob of Germany, and the newcomer Wallace Chan of China. The experienced viewer-collector, as well as the newcomer to the field, can begin to learn about modern jewelry at the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston with its dedicated jewelry gallery and specialized curator, the Victoria and Albert Museum in London which houses the William and Judith Bollinger Gallery, and the private collection of Alice and Louis Koch.

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Double Bull Ring by Mosheh Oved

England, c. 1950
Silver, gold, rubies, diamonds
Weight 14.1 gr.; circumference 48.79 mm.; US size 4 3/4; UK size J 1/4; at widest point 12.5 mm.; Legnth 25.8 mm

USD $12,000

Moshe Oved was the founder and owner of a renowned antique shop, named Cameo Corner, in the Bloomsbury area of London, near the British Museum. He was an authority on antique jewelry, a writer, sculptor, and poet. His first animal rings were created during the bombing raids of London during the Second World War. Amid one of these raids his wife Sah Oved, a jeweler in her own right, observed how Mosheh’s hands were trembling. Whilst sheltering in the basement of the shop she would give him some modelling wax to steady his hands, and that is when the series of animal rings began. His first attempts were either lambs or a kid on shaky legs. Another touching story from this period is that Mosheh made a ring shaped like a wounded lamb from the metal of his own cuff links as a spontaneous act of giving and sympathy for a client who had recently lost his son in battle.

Description:
The heavy silver ring is modelled as two bulls, a larger one with curled horns and ruby set eyes, and the smaller one with golden horns and tiny diamond eyes. Their bodies form a circular opening and hoop which surrounds the finger. The original owner of this ring remembers as a child visiting Cameo Corner with her father. They would discuss politics while she enjoyed exploring the curiosities in the shop. Oved personally gave her this ring, when she turned 10, as her zodiac sign was Taurus.

Literature:
His autobiography a Who’s Who of his time, is full of anecdotal tales of his international customers and notorieties of the period (Moshe Oved, Vision and Jewels, Autobiographic in Three Parts, London 1952).  For his animal rings, see: Peter Hinks, Twentieth-Century British Jewellery 1900-1980, London and Boston 1983, p. 96; Elsa Zorn Karlin, Jewelry and Metalwork in the Arts and Crafts Tradition, Atglen, Pennsylvania 1993, p. 86. 

Reference number: 871

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